Middle Finger feels fine. I’m not testing it’s strength. But it doesn’t hurt. My ring finger still hurts. I’ve added stretching back into the mix and the trainer showed me a few ways to tape my fingers and wrist. They worked. And were definitely interesting.
Since I couldn’t climb, I did one of my favorite home workouts… condensed. I hung my EXF rings from the jugs of my Metolius Simulator (the model i own, isn't sold anymore.). All of these exercises are at body weight, unless otherwise specified. Also, a quick note, these aren’t specifically for climbing. I coach Pole Vault at a local high school and college. These workouts are similar to what I have the athletes do.
Rings
1x8 Pushups
1x8 Hi-Lows
1x8 Archers
1x8 Lay outs (started on my feet, dropped to my knees for last four.)
1x8 Pec Flys (knees… I’m out of shape.)
1x8 Rows (wide)
1x8 Rows (close)
1x8 Dips (died at 6: did not properly finish the last two.)
The rest between each was about 15 sec. or however long it took to adjust the rings.
Core Routine
1x24 Suitcases
1x24 Russian Twists
1x16 V-ups
1x16 Baby ups
No rest between sets (Later I realized I messed up, it was supposed to be 1x32 on the suitcases and Russian twists)
Back Routine
2x20 Opposite arm opposite leg (on stomach)
1x20 leg lift (on stomach)
1x20 Torso Lift (on stomach)
1x20 Superman (on stomach)
No rest between these first four exercises.
1x8 Wide Grip Pull ups
1x8 Narrow grip Pulls ups
1x8 Typewriters Pull Ups
1x8 Pike Pull Ups
Rest between pull ups was about 30 seconds.
At this point, hypertrophy was making it difficult to move through range of motion. I finished with my shoulder series. The whole routine is done twice, resting only between the end of the first complete series and the start of the second. I use these as a type of maintenance to keep the tendons and small muscles in my shoulders strong. I learned this for pole vaulting, but the benefits for climbers would be similar. Weight should be light. For people just starting out, and placing this at the end of the workout, I’d recommend between 5-10 lbs in each hand. I typically don’t do more than 15 lbs.
1x8 Side Shoulder Raise (both arms, same time.)
1x8 Front Shoulder Raise (alternating)
1x8 Heavy Hand Bicep curls (alternating)
1x8 Military Press (both arms, same time)
1x8 Tricep press (alternating, above head)
1x8 Finger rolls (same time)
1x8 Wrist flexion (same time)
1x8 Back Flys (same time)
1x8 Front-Back Flys (same time)
I’ll try to do a video of these exercises to show what it is exactly I’m doing, so if you’re interested you can throw them into your routine. :)
This is the point you set the weights down and rest… 2-3 minutes. Do the whole shoulder routine again. If it’s not burning at the end, focus on your form. Don’t swing the weights. Control every motion. If it’s still not burning, you need more sets and reps.
After all this, I collapsed. Drained. That took 30-40 minutes. 6 months ago I would have done the workout wearing a 15 lbs vest after a climbing session. The reps and sets would have been higher (2-3x12-15) and it would have included a finger board workout to make a solid 1 hour of training after climbing.
But enough whining about what was. I grabbed a bite to eat, iced my wrist and fingers (which didn’t hurt during this.), showered, and now my muscles are shaking like they’ve been woken up from a coma.
Day 2: We’ll keep this one short.
I can do jugs and slopers. I can use the finger. Open handed hang is a no go. Today’s workout was the same as Day 1 of this week. But I changed up the order.
Pull up and back series.
Core Routine
Rings
Shoulders
This workout went a lot better. I didn’t feel like a bunch of midgets beat me up in a dark alley. My recovery of the following couple days was a lot faster and I was able to do the whole thing with some confidence (less shaking. I’ll do a post sometime on Neurological training).
Goodnight. Expect a post on nutrition and weight goals soon.
Day 3: Dag Nabbit!
Friday totally snuck by me. It’s not a “I didn’t feel like working out.” It was a “oh crap, I was supposed to work out and forgot and it’s 5am and how is it 5 am?! I need to go to bed.” Kind of thing. I did work out with the college kids. Did some high bar stuff (Bubka’s, windshield wipers, swing drills, pull ups.) but my finger felt super sore so I spent most of the rest of practice coaching (without actually doing the workouts too…) and stretching my finger. So yeah. I apologize (to myself, my lack of exercise doesn’t effect you.) for skipping a workout and opportunity to improve.
However, NOT using my finger after it told me that it was sore was a good thing. It’s been two days since and I realize… I’m using my finger without issue (except when playing guitar). The stretching really seemed to help work it out and make it feel better. So I’ll be keeping that up and hopefully I can start getting back on the wall soon. We’ll see what the (doctor required) Physical Therapist says when I see her on Thursday. I hope it’s the same PT who helped me with my Achilles. She was amazing. She had me back and sprinting in 2 months of two tears in my Achilles. (I wasn’t sprinting well… but I was sprinting.).
Peace, children. Or adults. Or whoever reads this. :)
Oh! What do you think about doing the exercise videos? Does that interest you? Would you like me to post the videos for how to do each exercise?
James
No comments:
Post a Comment