Sick as a Dog.

I never really understood that statement. Are dogs always sick, or is it supposed to be really awful for a dog to be sick when they are actually sick. I’m not sure. But I’ve been sick. And not just in the “oh crap. Exhaustion got me. I need to sleep for a day and let my body reboot.”

No, this was something else. The only time I can remember being more sick than this was once, back in high school, and also when I had that damned swine flu a couple years ago. This was bed ridden, run over by a mile long train “Please, Lord take me now” kind of sick.

I know why it hit me so hard. Long hours at work, climbing way more than I should and well passed what would be considered smart climbing. And it didn’t help that my entire family had come down with the black plague. Basically, all this and no matter of healthy eating and exercise was going to make up for everything else I was depriving myself of (let me spell it out for you: REST.).

So, now, two weeks later I went to the gym for the first time in an attempt to move on some rock. I had tried to go after the first week… and really I just sat there and twiddled my thumbs, and helped coach a friend who’s trying to get into climbing. This trip, I’m just fighting off the last bit of the nagging cough (BTW, I’m good for ab workouts for the next couple months… six pack? Done. Thank you, hacking/debilitating cough.). Energy is still at critically low levels.

I enjoy a good dyno as much as the next guy. I think I’m a pretty dynamic climber. I often have to tone down my desire to do big moves just to make sure I’m training statically and improving my foot technique and such… but when it came time to DTFO (Dyno the F* Out.)**, I was severely grounded.

Now I hear what you’re thinking… No, not because I’m psychic, but because you’re probably a smart person, or at least someone with some level of common sense. But you’re saying to me “James! You’re obviously not ready to be going back. What’re you doing? You run the risk of potentially making it worse. Or relapsing.” Yeah? Close?

I coach Pole Vault at the local community college and one of the local high schools. And if one of my athletes did this… I’d be pissed. But I no longer have a coach. I only have myself to answer too, and myself to blame.

I will admit I backed off though. I geared up to see how I was doing, and I did all right. Then I warmed down and called it a night.

Things I did notice: long rests in order to recover from a burn. Even on climbs well below my average level, I was still needing a long rest. The biggest parts I struggled with were core tension (sore muscles in my mid region… don’t know why. lol) and my grip strength was fatiguing quickly.

But I couldn’t handle being inside anymore. Or at work. I needed to move. I needed my drug. This is where I felt like a dog. Trapped inside and anxiously waiting to get outside and run around. Climbing destresses me. it clears my head, and for two weeks I was without my wonder drug. I was getting volatile, restless and more or less neurotic. The line between my fever and cabin fever was blurring.

Even if it wasn’t a mind blowing night, or a training night. Booting up was much needed. It’s raining outside. It’s cold. I needed this. If anything, I feel healthier just from having gone and shaking out my restless bones.

So here’s to health, happiness and holidays. I’ll let my body recoup some more, probably until the first of the year. I’ll keep time at the gym (guys… that’s all I’ve got. No outdoors until next spring.) to minimum. I’ll eat whatever I want, and ignoring my normally more restrictive diets. And just focus on getting healthy.

It just occurred to me that this is the longest I’ve gone without climbing since I started really attempting to improve almost a year ago (apparently that’s January 6^th). As much as I hate to admit it, this hiatus is a blessing. My desire to climb and move are constantly growing and keeping myself in check is often times difficult. My body needed this. Next time though, hopefully I’ll just take some time off instead of crashing like this.

Happy new years guys. :)

James

**DTFO was a saying we made up a while ago. I’m not sure if it’s ever been used before so forgive me if that’s been your friend’s “thing” for the last… however long. It wasn’t my intention to steal it. I’ll try to write up a blog sometime soon about how that came about how that became a sort of faux-mantra for us. If you have used it before, or heard it used please leave a comment and share your story.

Nearing the Years End

I keep jotting down notes on things I’m going to blog about. The things that have happened. That I’ve learned. That I think you’ll find interesting. But I’ve spent so little time at home these past few weeks that I really am here to sit, sleep and shower. But I’ll try to do a quick post and maybe come back and go more in depth.

I competed in the Portland Boulder Rally at the Circuit climbing gym. If you remember, I competed in a black light competition during Halloween. And I did awful. Be it rest, being over zealous, or possibly just not enough forethought going into a route… I did really bad. However, this time I came in rested. Freezing cold (lost feeling in my feet and fell off the early problems because I couldn’t tell how I was on the holds), but completely calm.

I went nuts. After that initial folly on a couple fours I was finally warm. I slowed my pace way down (about 6 or 7 minutes between attempts, and 10-12 minutes between each problem). I flashed the next five problems ranging between 510 and 630 points (supposedly that's v5-v6). I realized I should have climbed stuff a little bit harder. I do think some of my success was intentionally watching a route, which gave me beta, but also allowed me to pick problems well suited to my style of climbing. …which means all of them were dynamic and overhang. I was in heaven. No crimps in sight.

I definitely should have set my sites a little higher though. I had a blast. Won a couple hats and quick draws. The end. It took me a while to recover from that. To which then I got ill. Again. More vitamin C!

I don’t remember if I talked about setting my first routes. They weren’t mind blowing by any means. But they were fun. I had a good time doing it and really felt like I was playing with Lego’s. but for adults. I’m really excited to get back in and work on some more, but I know I won’t have any time, probably until after new years.

Umm… my boss from the Source found this blog. There was this split second of panic somewhere between “hey, so I saw your blog…” and “we should talk.” That I was like “aww crap… I didn’t say anything that’s gonna get me in trouble did i?” I didn’t. in fact, Michael was really cool, as he always seems to be. Still. I’ll probably be a little hesitant when posting. Haha

But in all seriousness (and not in any way related to the fact that my bosses might see this.): it’s awesome to go in and pick their brains. Michael and Hans. They’ve humbled me a few times and constantly remind me that I’ve got so much to learn. And I’m down with getting reminded I’m new…ish. I’m always ready to be humbled and remember I’ve got a long road ahead of me before I’ll meet my goal of a v10. And this all helps lay the foundation that will not just get me there, but beyond.

I’ve decided atleast through the rest of the holidays that I’m going to focus more on just getting time in on the wall. “training” is nearly impossible right now. And I think just getting my hands torn up and pushing through the exhaustion will be training enough. I’ve been to one of the gyms 5 times in the last 4 days. My hands are raw, and my body’s tired. But I can really feel myself getting mentally strong. Even though my body is trying to fail, feeling myself push through and strive for good footwork and still breathing, while not panicking is such a powerful feeling.

I believe the body follows the brain. Therefore I need to train my brain to stay calm and focused. I’m going to end this pretty quick and so I’ll leave you with this, one of my favorite quotes.

"Beyond the very extreme fatigue and distress, we may find amounts of ease and power we never dreamed ourselves to own; sources of strength never taxed at all because we never pushed through the obstruction." -William James