Guru Says

It’s been about a month since I tweaked my hand. A month and some change since I had real serious passion to move on plastic (almost said rock… ha! Still not getting outside...) and at least that much time since I’ve had anything to write about.

Did I even mention I hurt my hand? I was on a fun little dynamic problem. My middle and ring finger were in a pocket. As I reached for the next hold, my feet cut from the wall. My weight came down and popped my fingers out of the hole they were stuck in. I tried to hang on for just a split second, but it was too much.

It didn’t hurt. I should feel it. The next week passes. Nothing. No stiffness, no pain. I assume a few days rest got me through it. I can still climb near my peak. But over the next couple weeks, my performance suffers.

“I must be tired” I say. I sleep more, climb less. But when I do climb, I’m struggling. 2, 3, 5 grades below my project level. I’m struggling. Still no pain.

I climbed on Monday. If it wasn’t a jug, it wasn’t doable.

The next day, I’m sore. It’s not just weakness in my hand, but it has spread down into my forearm and I have a hard time making a firm fist. I tell Hans the symptoms, already knowing what his answer will be, “Sounds like your pulleys. Rest. Come back. Get stronger. Accidents happen to everyone who climbs long enough.”

Guru! Shaman! Perform a miracle! Some voodoo. Make it work, please? No right hand doesn’t just stop me from climbing, it means no Pole Vault either. My right hand is my top hand, without it, I can’t hang on when I’m upside down in the air.

Those fancy books I read all have a section that says the same sentence; “you need a break every so often so your body can heal, adapt and you can rekindle your passion.” Fine. So be it. Climbing God’s, you win this round.

But I don’t have to like it. And Suddenly, the “wants” begin. Because I can’t "do", my brain kicks around ideas of what I will do when I can again. I want new shoes, Evolv Shamans. I want a crash pad, Madrock R3 (Because I AM going to climb outside this year, Dammit! And because I have a coupon.). I want t-shirts with logos only climbers will recognize (oh yeah, elitist status, here I come.).

But what I want most of all, is that moment of peace. When my whole body feels as if it’s working in unison to create a symphony of movement. My body becomes not only the brush, but also the canvas.

It wouldn’t be so bad if climbing didn’t surround me. Adds, Videos, Magazines… and I work at a gym (“Did you see that sick new 8?!” “Yeah… I did…” wah-wah). I’ve lost most of my stamina. I’m going to give it a month before I give it a light test run again.

For the next 30 days, my fight will be patience. Wish me Luck.

James Race Carr