But bloody hands aren’t new to me. Scars litter the surface of my dry skin. Slight disfigurements can be found on my slender fingers as each of my ten digits has at one point been sprained, dislocated, or broken.
When it came time to start writing, I did what I always do: closed my eyes, took a deep breath and said, “Quit bitching. And get going.”
I’m about to turn 25 years old. Probably well past my prime for starting a career as a climber. But something like that has never stopped me before. When I was 9 or 10, I did Tae Kwon Do competitively, training 2 hours a night, 3 days a week and up to 6 hours on Saturday. I did this until I was 14.
This is when I switched to track and field, because I thought it would be more laid back. In college, I was recruited to run and would train 6-8 hours a day, 5 days a week for nearly 9 months out of the year. I had the respect of my teammates but was known for over training and being “injury prone.”
My average weight was between 160-165 lbs, with a skin fold body fat % of 3.4%. I did this for 5 years.
Bouldering was not a first choice sport for me. My roommate was really into it, but I was (still am) terrified of heights. He got me to go, but the fear of falling made my desire to succeed, or even go, lack considerably.
Shortly after, I studied abroad in Australia for 5 months. I continued my training with new goals. Little to no cardio. Just lift. I came back to the states looking like this:
When I finished my senior year of track, I thought that was it. I was done. It was a good feeling, but I was lost. Boredom is what brought me back to the climbing gym. I wanted something new. And I wanted to see if I could push through this fear of heights.
December 2010 was when I made the decision to be a climber.
I set weekly goals, talked to whoever would listen/give advice (which is most people) and I did what I do best: I trained.
I tried to set realistic goals and seemed to hit everyone.
-V3 by the end of January.
-V4 by March.
-V5 by May.
-V6 by 6 months (which you can see in the video below.)
My next goal is a V7 by September. V8 by the end of my first year.
At some point I knew that all the muscle I had gained was a burden. In April, I began altering my diet and training regimen. I’m now 167 lbs (~76 Kilos) Fat % unknown. Goal is 160 lbs (72.75 kilos) with 3.5% skin fold body fat by January.
The purpose of this blog is different than what my other blog is. This blog is personal. A place to post on my diet, training cycles, where I’m at physically/emotionally. It’s also a place to monitor the up’s and inevitable down’s of my motivation. Maybe build an audience of like minded enthusiasts who can help keep this ball rolling. I want a place to vent my frustrations, record success. And put goals where the world can see them and hold me accountable.
I’ll discuss my training regimens in detail. Maybe do some gear reviews if I see fit. Talk about trips I’m planning, post pictures and videos. The usual blog stuff.. that’s geared towards climbing.
Side note: since starting this in 12/2010, I have no one climbed outside. Something I hope to remedy soon.
If you’re still reading this and are interested in what I do outside of climbing, I coach pole vault at a local high school and college.
and I also own my own videography/photography company called Intense Entertainment.
While I get into the swing of things of having two blogs, I may only post once a week. But feel free to comment on posts, start a discussion below. Follow me on Twitter if you like.
But for now, it’s V10 or bust. And when that goal is reached, we’ll just have to reach even higher.
Thanks guys,
James Carr
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