A Life In Motion

I’ve had two and a half weeks to stew over my arm. To really take some time to think about what I want. As my old coach approached me about getting healthy and new training techniques, he made me realize that I don’t want to come back this time. At least not for pole vault.

When I was waiting to see the doctor and find out if I need surgery, I kept thinking “you can have track. And Vault. Please don’t take climbing from me.” I knew this day has been coming for a while. Pole vaulting has left me with so much damage to my joints, spine and muscles. I spent a lot of time wanting a goal. It’s hard to spend so many years reaching for something and fall short. Even after I stopped loving it and knew the toll it was taking on my health, I chased the dream anyways.

So I’ve been thinking about starting a new blog. A third one? Why? I can’t even keep up with this one, and there’s another one collecting dust. I want a place where I can talk freely, share whatever is going on in my life. Post adventures, Pictures, Videos.

And that banner needs to go. V10 or Bust? As Tim Lundy pointed out “Guess we all know it was a bust.” (I laughed hysterically at that… and how I didn’t think of it first.). It was good in theory. But now, it’s time to adapt to the situation. Once I can start Physical Therapy, it’s supposed to take 3-6 months to recover. I’d rather not come back reaching for some goal that blinds me from the joy I get by simply moving. I don’t want to waste hours of my day obsessing over goals like that anymore.

I want to spend my time enjoying the beauty of motion. The human body is incredible. The way we fall down and can get up. We heal and scar. I want to explore this. Find the need to move in others. See what drives them. Maybe motivate others to follow in their footsteps, or create paths of their own.

I’d love for others to be involved; telling their stories or sharing pictures. Whatever it is that makes you move, don’t hesitate to share it.

I’ve gotten in contact with several people who have a passion for movement. Each having a vastly different discipline than the others. Hopefully over the next few months I can meet with them, shoot some photos or videos and share their stories with you. :)

If you’d like to show your support, there’s a little follow button at the top of this page that you can click in order to get updates as they come out. You can also share your thoughts in the comments below.

Take care and goodnight

James

Gear Shifting Goodness

I feel like I’m beating my head against a wall any time I have to say I’m injured again. This one is by far the worst I’ve had in the last year and it is not climbing related. It happened while pole vaulting. My right bicep tore. It’s deformed (though a week later, it already looks and feels so much better.) and I can’t flex it.

The dark pics are from a couple days after...

Doctor says the tendon is in tact. So no surgery. Just 3-6 months physical therapy. Might be able to get on a wall in a few months. We’ll see. No rush.

Originally, this post was very sullen and depressing. My extra time was being spent over analyzing what I could have done wrong. But a week of going over it, I was left feeling it was simply a fluke. My vault was fine. It just happened. And I let it go.

I took more time before this, letting my mood adjust and find something positive in this. First off: I’m hurt. I can’t change that. It’s time to focus on getting healthy. Second: I love photography/videography. Now’s a good chance to work and build my portfolio. And finally: my body has needed a serious break for a very long while now. I may not have wanted this, but I’m pretty certain I needed this.

One Week Later...

So the gears shift. I’d love for photography/videography to be the way I make money. I have a business, but have struggled to put the time and energy into it that would make it a viable source of income. Well… I have time now.

I’ve lined up some paying gigs. And have been in contact with several climbers about doing some still photo shoots and possibly some videos in the near future.

I may redesign the blog soon (this week or next) to reflect the shift in focus. Please let me know what you think in the comments below. :)

James

Workouts: Week 3

Day 1: Rings

Middle Finger feels fine. I’m not testing it’s strength. But it doesn’t hurt. My ring finger still hurts. I’ve added stretching back into the mix and the trainer showed me a few ways to tape my fingers and wrist. They worked. And were definitely interesting.

There's three different styles of tape jobs here. combined, that finger was completely immobile.

Since I couldn’t climb, I did one of my favorite home workouts… condensed. I hung my EXF rings from the jugs of my Metolius Simulator (the model i own, isn't sold anymore.). All of these exercises are at body weight, unless otherwise specified. Also, a quick note, these aren’t specifically for climbing. I coach Pole Vault at a local high school and college. These workouts are similar to what I have the athletes do.

(This is what the setup looks like.)

Rings

1x8 Pushups

1x8 Hi-Lows

1x8 Archers

1x8 Lay outs (started on my feet, dropped to my knees for last four.)

1x8 Pec Flys (knees… I’m out of shape.)

1x8 Rows (wide)

1x8 Rows (close)

1x8 Dips (died at 6: did not properly finish the last two.)

The rest between each was about 15 sec. or however long it took to adjust the rings.

Core Routine

1x24 Suitcases

1x24 Russian Twists

1x16 V-ups

1x16 Baby ups

No rest between sets (Later I realized I messed up, it was supposed to be 1x32 on the suitcases and Russian twists)

Back Routine

2x20 Opposite arm opposite leg (on stomach)

1x20 leg lift (on stomach)

1x20 Torso Lift (on stomach)

1x20 Superman (on stomach)

No rest between these first four exercises.

1x8 Wide Grip Pull ups

1x8 Narrow grip Pulls ups

1x8 Typewriters Pull Ups

1x8 Pike Pull Ups

Rest between pull ups was about 30 seconds.

At this point, hypertrophy was making it difficult to move through range of motion. I finished with my shoulder series. The whole routine is done twice, resting only between the end of the first complete series and the start of the second. I use these as a type of maintenance to keep the tendons and small muscles in my shoulders strong. I learned this for pole vaulting, but the benefits for climbers would be similar. Weight should be light. For people just starting out, and placing this at the end of the workout, I’d recommend between 5-10 lbs in each hand. I typically don’t do more than 15 lbs.

1x8 Side Shoulder Raise (both arms, same time.)

1x8 Front Shoulder Raise (alternating)

1x8 Heavy Hand Bicep curls (alternating)

1x8 Military Press (both arms, same time)

1x8 Tricep press (alternating, above head)

1x8 Finger rolls (same time)

1x8 Wrist flexion (same time)

1x8 Back Flys (same time)

1x8 Front-Back Flys (same time)

I’ll try to do a video of these exercises to show what it is exactly I’m doing, so if you’re interested you can throw them into your routine. :)

This is the point you set the weights down and rest… 2-3 minutes. Do the whole shoulder routine again. If it’s not burning at the end, focus on your form. Don’t swing the weights. Control every motion. If it’s still not burning, you need more sets and reps.

After all this, I collapsed. Drained. That took 30-40 minutes. 6 months ago I would have done the workout wearing a 15 lbs vest after a climbing session. The reps and sets would have been higher (2-3x12-15) and it would have included a finger board workout to make a solid 1 hour of training after climbing.

But enough whining about what was. I grabbed a bite to eat, iced my wrist and fingers (which didn’t hurt during this.), showered, and now my muscles are shaking like they’ve been woken up from a coma.

Day 2: We’ll keep this one short.

I can do jugs and slopers. I can use the finger. Open handed hang is a no go. Today’s workout was the same as Day 1 of this week. But I changed up the order.

Pull up and back series.

Core Routine

Rings

Shoulders

This workout went a lot better. I didn’t feel like a bunch of midgets beat me up in a dark alley. My recovery of the following couple days was a lot faster and I was able to do the whole thing with some confidence (less shaking. I’ll do a post sometime on Neurological training).

Goodnight. Expect a post on nutrition and weight goals soon.

Day 3: Dag Nabbit!

Friday totally snuck by me. It’s not a “I didn’t feel like working out.” It was a “oh crap, I was supposed to work out and forgot and it’s 5am and how is it 5 am?! I need to go to bed.” Kind of thing. I did work out with the college kids. Did some high bar stuff (Bubka’s, windshield wipers, swing drills, pull ups.) but my finger felt super sore so I spent most of the rest of practice coaching (without actually doing the workouts too…) and stretching my finger. So yeah. I apologize (to myself, my lack of exercise doesn’t effect you.) for skipping a workout and opportunity to improve.

However, NOT using my finger after it told me that it was sore was a good thing. It’s been two days since and I realize… I’m using my finger without issue (except when playing guitar). The stretching really seemed to help work it out and make it feel better. So I’ll be keeping that up and hopefully I can start getting back on the wall soon. We’ll see what the (doctor required) Physical Therapist says when I see her on Thursday. I hope it’s the same PT who helped me with my Achilles. She was amazing. She had me back and sprinting in 2 months of two tears in my Achilles. (I wasn’t sprinting well… but I was sprinting.).

Peace, children. Or adults. Or whoever reads this. :)

Oh! What do you think about doing the exercise videos? Does that interest you? Would you like me to post the videos for how to do each exercise?

James

EVOLVing Interests

Truth be told, Evolv was always a brand I liked in climbing. My first shoes were the Defy’s. My first chalk bad would have been Evolv, if the store had any in. Pretty much, it was either Prana or it was Evolv. I like their style. I even have them adorned on my camera bag.

I began to drift away though. I have a very powerful nose and Evolv has a history of being incredibly smelly. I couldn’t keep them in the house. Or the car. Or in the neighboring yards. They were finally laid to rest after a mishap where desperation placed them in the laundry.

Check me out thuggin on this v1! That's the face of concentration.

After destroying my Defy’s, I went for another pair my friend Kyle recommended, the La Sportiva Solutions. Great shoe… not for me. The Miura’s from the same company did the trick. After that, I stuck with La Sportiva and picked up some Python’s. Super Downsized. Too much in fact. But I loved them. Sadly, they fell prey to sloppy footwork and now need to be resoled.

Sorry for the history lesson. I like to over-share. When the python’s bit it, I was debating getting another, larger pair, or trying something new… Enter the Shaman. I see them everywhere. Apparently they’re made from magic carpets and stitched together from the hair off a Unicorn’s mane. They grant special powers like herculean strength, ninja like reflexes and other such bad assery. And each pair was personally blessed by Chris Sharma himself. At least, that’s what the rumors say.

But seriously, these shoes are supposed to reinvent the wheel according to people who own them. The concept of downsizing like a Geisha is no more with these bad boys (which look like Goku from Dragon Ball Z. Total plus, as he’s a personal childhood hero of mine.).

I tried on a couple pairs that were approximately my size before taking the plunge. They all felt awesome. Like I could dominate the world as long as my feet got inside the shoes. Plain and simple. I ended up going a bit smaller… but I knew these were it. One shoe to rule them all (one for each foot.).

These were going to make me an Evolv fan boy again. Not as sensitive as the Pythons were. And not a huge loss, all things considered. I do like that the platform was such that I could pop onto the tips of my toes with no pain, making all the ballerinas jealous. And they fit like a glove. The three straps really let me custom fit the shoe to my foot. One exception being the heel. But I’ve yet to find a shoe that properly hugs my funky feet to 100% satisfaction (Python’s had the best heel, just saying.)

Sadly, I’ll be waiting to try these beautiful ladies out (yes, my shoes gender swapped.) on the wall as my left hand is still bummed up from my fall. :( But soon! Until then, I’ll Plie the night away. And I’ll enjoy my shiny new t-shirts. And the chalk bag… well, that’s replacing the one my athlete’s mangled.

Here’s to hoping recovery continues to go quickly so I can let you know if these shoes help Toto and I get out of Kansas… or back to Kansas? Nevermind.

Goodnight,

James

Wait. I lied. I’m grabbing some local climbers to do some photo test shots here in the next little bit of future. Stay tuned for that. :)

Workouts: Week 2

Day 1: Lets try Pyramids again

I realized I was doing the pyramid workout wrong. Last week, I tried to do 4xV2’s,3xV3’s,2xV4’s,1Xv5,2xV4’s,3xV3’s,4xV2’s. But after going through the book where I got this workout (The Self Coached climber), apparently, I was over zealous; not giving myself enough rest and adding to many problems to the routine.

The correct pyramid workout was 4xV2’s, 2xV3’s, 1xV4, 1xV5, 1xV4, 2xV3’s, 4xV2’s. The rest is whatever I need to not get pumped.

I climbed with a friend for part of the session. The 2’s and 3’s were fine. Even the V4 was good. But I still think I rushed my rests. Because the V5 tore me to pieces. I was 1 more from finishing and definitely let myself take too many attempts at it. I just wanted it so bad.

This made the next V4 extremely difficult. I couldn’t finish it. Tried a few times, but knew anymore work would make it hard to do the rest of the workout. The V3’s were also very rough. I had wasted a lot of energy making this part that much harder. The Last v2’s all pushed me mentally as I struggled to keep myself going. My last two were so hard, I felt my grip loosen and I was certain I was going to peel off at the top.

I didn’t. I felt good about the work out. Much better than last week. Even now my hands and forearms are mad at me.

I will say this. I hate climbing when the gym is packed. But in that sea of faces are some really amazing friends. Climbers whom I’ve spent time with and gotten to know. Their support during this rebuilding and healing phase has been monumental. So, though they probably won’t read this: Thanks to all of you.

Day 2: Pop, Pop, Pop.

I postponed the workout form Wednesday. I was super ripped to pieces and need an extra day to recover. Plus I had been wet from work for about 6 hours. And the snow started to fall. I called it a night and went to bed.

I went back tonight, feeling better. I was ready to tackle the 4x4 workout. I arrived and began warming up. Felt great. About half way through, I was on a crimp. No big deal. Until I tried to adjust my hand, slipped. It’s that classic moment of not letting go.

I rotated, still on the crimp. And heard a quick pop, pop, pop from my wrist.

Fuck! Seriously?!? I just felt good about my right hand… now my left might be messed up? I did finish the route. It didn’t hurt. So I thought, maybe it was nothing.

A few minutes later… I couldn’t put any pressure on it. I could make a fist. Couldn’t squeeze. I iced it for 20 minutes. Lost feeling. Explained the concept of icing to a couple climbers. They were all cool about the wrist and shared stories about injuries. It was fun hanging out with the guys throttling the hardest routes in the gym.. it’s the group I figured I’d be climbing with by now. Unfortunately, that’s not the case. So, it’s back to resting.

I’ll see a doctor. I’ll let you know how it goes. Prediction for day 3: Moping… or maybe I’ll do some photography. There’s a few of those climbers that would be fun to shoot.

Day 3: Moping.

No, not really. And this is a bit late. So I’ll recap. Friday was the nicest day we’ve had so far in 2012. And I spent it in urgent care waiting to see a doctor.

I’m not entirely sure why I felt this was necessary. The doctor’s are too rushed to care, and honestly, I give better prognoses than they do (cocky much? Well… not when it’s true.)

So, I felt it was a strained/hyperextension of two tendons. 2 hours in a waiting room and then 40 minutes in a check up room… the doctor finally arrives and sees me for about 3 minutes. Max. “Ice and Tylenol.” That’s it? I know that. I paid money and close to 3 hours of a beautiful day to hear what I was already doing? So glad you spent ten years of your life in medical school.

Now, the pain has already diminished considerably. I have full range of motion. Mostly it’s an acute soreness. I’ve been wearing a brace, not because it really immobilizes it. But it reminds me not to use it.

Workouts: Week 1

Day 1: My First Pyramid of 2012

My hand is feeling good. My strength is coming back good and plenty. Still not where I’d like it. But there’s a lot of work still to go.

My goal was to warm up on some traverses, low level top outs. Stretching. The workout was 4xV2’s, 3xV3’s, 2xV4’s, 1xV5, 2xV4’s, 3xV3’s, 4xV2’s.

Warm ups were good. No issues. The place was crowded, which slowed everything down. I needed that. Not speeding through it made the work go better.

The rests were approximately the length of time it took to complete the previous route. Except when I change difficulty where I would take 5 minutes.

4xV2’s was super easy. The 3xV3’s were also perfectly fine and I had no issues. When I hit the 2xV4’s I began to struggle. I still finished but noticed my core weakening… maybe all the core work with my athletes caught up with me.

The V5 is where I hit the wall (I’ve really got to think of a new saying.). I picked a really pretty and slopey V5. I started it. The overhanging problem really was a horrible idea. I recently tweaked my hamstring (can’t catch a break) and two heel hooks later, I was in some serious pain.

I moved on to two more v5’s. I worked them but couldn’t seem to get it. I moved down to the second set of V4’s. Pretty certain I didn’t finish them. 3 attempts each.

Moved to the 3xV3’s. found some really fun ones. But my right hand was toast. My lack of callusing and still healing hand left me raw… and a bit swollen.

I couldn’t finish. Now would have been a good time to stop because I was sore and hurting. Nope, I stopped because I couldn’t continue. Haha ok. That’s it. Have a good night.

Day 2: Getting back on the Horse.

Attempting a 4x4 workout. My goal was one set of V2,V3,V4,V2. Rest between reps was meant to be the time it would take to re-chalk and start. After the 4 problems, 7 minute rest.

I picked a section with the routes right next to each other. But the place was busy and even if an area was empty when I started, it quickly filled. This made keeping time difficult.

I switched to longer routes of the same grades. Repeat that 4 times. That was the plan.

Set #3, I bumped up V2,V3,V4,V3. Huge Jump, Right? The V4’s were super crimpy. Still Struggling there.

The Last set was V2, V3… I fell from a few moves in and laid on my back, toast. My endurance is completely shot. I don’t mind the raw hands or the swollen fingers… But feeling like I just ran repeat 400 meter Dashes sucks (Thankfully, no butt lock.).

Until Friday!

Day 3: What I meant to do Friday…

Day 3 was supposed to happen yesterday. But it’s been a pretty rough week across the board for the Carr family, so that took priority.

I moved Friday’s workout to Saturday. Then the workout became a climb session. I took my friend Bryan climbing. He’s been a few times, But is still very new.

I focused on trying to help him think more about his feet, as opposed to the number on the routes. He still managed to pick beautifully technical V2’s that just murdered him. Kudo’s to him for not getting frustrated and sticking it out.

I just found fun, moderate climbs around Bryan, working on technique and making the sends smooth. I want to give some praise to the route setters at The Circuit. The difficulty seems to have increased for the grades. All still very manageable, but you’ll feel a bit more accomplished pulling down a newer, harder problem.

I finished my night on a V6. All Slopers and super slick feet. I liked it. I didn’t feel held back by my hand… ok, not true… starting the problem took a minute or so to figure out. But I felt good. Great even. Just not enough endurance to work through the whole problem yet.

But it makes me feel like my technique is still there, and if I keep training and healing smart… I’ll be back and better than ever in no time.

Goodnight,

James

Guru Says

It’s been about a month since I tweaked my hand. A month and some change since I had real serious passion to move on plastic (almost said rock… ha! Still not getting outside...) and at least that much time since I’ve had anything to write about.

Did I even mention I hurt my hand? I was on a fun little dynamic problem. My middle and ring finger were in a pocket. As I reached for the next hold, my feet cut from the wall. My weight came down and popped my fingers out of the hole they were stuck in. I tried to hang on for just a split second, but it was too much.

It didn’t hurt. I should feel it. The next week passes. Nothing. No stiffness, no pain. I assume a few days rest got me through it. I can still climb near my peak. But over the next couple weeks, my performance suffers.

“I must be tired” I say. I sleep more, climb less. But when I do climb, I’m struggling. 2, 3, 5 grades below my project level. I’m struggling. Still no pain.

I climbed on Monday. If it wasn’t a jug, it wasn’t doable.

The next day, I’m sore. It’s not just weakness in my hand, but it has spread down into my forearm and I have a hard time making a firm fist. I tell Hans the symptoms, already knowing what his answer will be, “Sounds like your pulleys. Rest. Come back. Get stronger. Accidents happen to everyone who climbs long enough.”

Guru! Shaman! Perform a miracle! Some voodoo. Make it work, please? No right hand doesn’t just stop me from climbing, it means no Pole Vault either. My right hand is my top hand, without it, I can’t hang on when I’m upside down in the air.

Those fancy books I read all have a section that says the same sentence; “you need a break every so often so your body can heal, adapt and you can rekindle your passion.” Fine. So be it. Climbing God’s, you win this round.

But I don’t have to like it. And Suddenly, the “wants” begin. Because I can’t "do", my brain kicks around ideas of what I will do when I can again. I want new shoes, Evolv Shamans. I want a crash pad, Madrock R3 (Because I AM going to climb outside this year, Dammit! And because I have a coupon.). I want t-shirts with logos only climbers will recognize (oh yeah, elitist status, here I come.).

But what I want most of all, is that moment of peace. When my whole body feels as if it’s working in unison to create a symphony of movement. My body becomes not only the brush, but also the canvas.

It wouldn’t be so bad if climbing didn’t surround me. Adds, Videos, Magazines… and I work at a gym (“Did you see that sick new 8?!” “Yeah… I did…” wah-wah). I’ve lost most of my stamina. I’m going to give it a month before I give it a light test run again.

For the next 30 days, my fight will be patience. Wish me Luck.

James Race Carr